A restrained, fresh and beautifully layered nose displays notes of herbal tea to the red cherry liqueur, earth, violet and Asian-style tea, all of which is trimmed in enough wood influence to comment on. The sleekly muscular and agreeably intense imposingly-scaled flavors also brim with dry extract that helps to buffer the exceptionally firm tannic spine on the powerful, balanced and strikingly long finish. This is a huge Mazis that is breathtakingly good but again, I underscore that opening a bottle before age 10 is tantamount to vinous infanticide!

Score: 95 Allen Meadow (AM), Bourghound (BH), January 2021

The 2018 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from three parcels, the largest populated by 90-year-old vines and planted at high density. Raised in 75% new oak and 90% whole bunch, it has a stupendous, mineral-driven, intense bouquet of blackberry and blueberry fruit that delivers great clarity and panache. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, vibrant acidity, great intensity and a precise, sustained finish. It is very tightly coiled at present and as such, it will demand several years (at least) in bottle before it will even consider its drinking plateau.

Score: 96-98 Neal Martin (NM), Vinous Media (VM), January 2020

Wild and carnal, the 2018 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru offers up an incipiently complex bouquet of cassis and cherries mingled with nuances of coniferous forest floor, smoked meats, violets and licorice. Full-bodied, multidimensional and searingly concentrated, it´s layered and muscular, with a deep, textural, richly tannic profile that´s already seamlessly integrated: the only missing ingredient is time.

Loïc Dugat-Py was once again one of the earliest to pick in the Côte de Nuits, beginning his harvest with Charmes-Chambertin on September 9 with a team of fully 60 in the vineyards. He characterizes 2019 as "very gourmand" and, like me, finds it hard to choose between his 2018s—which number among the most successful wines of that uneven vintage and which we revisited together from bottle—and their younger siblings, suggesting that 2019 is more charming and immediate but that 2018 may prove the more serious over the long haul. Time will tell, but what is clear is that this domaine simply doesn´t miss these days. Happily, with the addition of several Beaune premiers crus, the more accessible—both financially and structurally—part of Domaine Dugat-Py´s range has expanded, and these cuvées will offer an excellent introduction to what is now going on at this address. It bears repeating that the Dugat-Py style has appreciably evolved in the last few years: Low yields, old vines and small-berried massal selections mean that these are inevitably deep, concentrated and age-worthy wines; but extraction isn´t pushed so far as it once was, and—as I wrote last year—Loïc has also quietly reduced the percentage of new oak used here. Where until recently 100% new was the order of the day from all premiers and grands crus—and sometimes for communal appellations too—that has been much reduced. The choice of forests, seasoning and toast has been refined too, and clearly Dugat-Py has never been so well served by Tonnellerie François Frères as they are today. So, I once again encourage readers to put outdated stereotypes of excessive oak and over-extraction to one side and try what is being produced today, as these are bottles that number among the finest that contemporary Burgundy has to offer.

Score: 98 William Kelley (WK), The Wine Advocate (WA), January 2021