Intense aromas of ripe herbs, plums, green coffee beans, and hazelnuts. Turns to crushed berries and orange peel. Full-bodied with superb concentration and fine, velvety tannins that run the length of the wine. It´s big but agile and gorgeous. Merlot. What a wine! Best after 2030.

Score: 99 James Suckling (JS), JamesSuckling.com, June 2023

The 2020 Masseto is superb. Bright and vibrant in the glass, the 2020 o!ers up an exciting mix of dark-toned fruit, mocha, spice, leather, tobacco, cedar and a kiss of French oak. Lively acids and Franc aromatics lend vibrancy throughout. The Franc is so evident today. This is exceptionally polished and sophisticated, albeit a touch slender relative to most years. In 2020, Masseto is more finesse than power.

There´s quite a bit of news at Ornellaia and sister estate Masseto. Longtime Estate Manager Axel Heinz departed the wineries earlier this summer for his native Bordeaux, which opens a new chapter for both estates. “Two thousand-twenty was the last in a trio of vintages with more rain than usual and no drought, but quite a bit of heat during summer." Heinz explained. "Temperatures moderated in August, with the arrival of cool evenings. We picked quite a bit of Merlot early for the aromatics. Temperatures then rose markedly, leading to a week of rain, and then finally to good weather through to the end of harvest." Masseto is a terrific example of the restrained style of 2020, while Massetino is an equally fine and representative 2021.

Score: 98 Antonio Galloni (AG), Vinous Media (VM), August 2023

The 2020 Masseto now sees new DNA with a touch of Cabernet Franc added to this celebrated Merlot-based icon wine. This is a vintage of enormous richness and density, and everything about the wine is taken up a notch or two (including the bottle glass weight and the 15% alcohol content). But Axel Heinz and his team are well prepared for the hot vintages like 2020, and changes to farming and canopy management ensure even ripening. This wine is always hard to analyze in its youth. It needs many more years to soften and flesh out. Give it time.

Following a very productive 17 years at Masseto and Ornellaia, Estate Director Axel Heinz announced in March of this year that he was leaving his position. He will join Château Lascombes in Bordeaux as CEO. Axel was born in Germany, raised in France and established a brilliant winemaking career in Italy. "It makes it difficult to know which national soccer team to root for," he once joked with me. Under his time at Masseto and Ornellaia, the two brands grew in respective strength with individual identities. His new releases command some of the highest prices in Italian wine and are sought after by collectors worldwide. Axel oversaw the construction of the new Masseto winery, and he launched a second wine called Massetino (new vintages of both are reviewed here). Axel was quoted in the Italian press as saying, "Italy will stay in my heart forever, but it´s time to go back to France."

I visited with Axel Heinz and the newly-appointed Masseto winemaker Gaia Cinnirella in early July to taste a preview sample of the 2020 Masseto and the 2020 Massetino that are hitting the market now. My review of the 15,000-bottle 2020 Massetino was published in May: https://www.robertparker.com/wines/TGgDqjsgpQZ4E4Rh2. Massetino was first produced in 2017, and this Merlot-based wine (with a small part Cabernet Franc) is already enjoying big success as the winery´s "lower-entry" wine. The flagship remains Masseto (now in its 36th year). The iconic Merlot-based wine also has a small element of Cabernet Franc (from 6% to 7%) in the 2019 and the 2020 vintages. The decision to add the Cabernet Franc is part of a greater discussion on the impact of climate change in coastal Tuscan wines. Whether Cabernet Franc will be added to Masseto in the future will be decided on a vintage-by-vintage basis. The fact remains that Cabernet Franc performs very well in this specific environment. The estate had the opportunity to replant vines on blue clay soils that were previously used for the white wine Poggio alle Gazze dell´Ornellaia. They wanted to try a new variety. The scorching hot 2017 vintage caused further concern about warming summer temperatures, and Estate Director Axel Heinz was generally looking for a new approach with Masseto. Blending in the Cabernet Franc was a natural outcome, and Heinz cites inspiration from Pomerol and Saint-Émilion. After the classic 2019 vintage and the full-bodied 2020 vintage, comes the highly anticipated 2021 vintage. Heinz says, “The dry season concentrated the grapes, which yielded intense wines with great potential. The colors are particularly intense, like the aromas characterized by fully ripened black fruit. In the mouth, we find the unmistakable balance between richness and firmness that distinguishes Masseto. The wines develop a rich and concentrated palate, with dense and velvety tannins, as the result of careful and soft extraction, underpinned by striking acidity that is reminiscent of some of the best vintages, such as 2006, 2010 and 2016.”

Score: 96 Monica Larner (ML), The Wine Advocate (WA), May 2023