Moderate reduction is enough to push what appears to be ripe fruit to the background. More interesting are the dense, powerful and imposing big-bodied flavors that brim with both muscle and dry extract that serves to buffer the extremely firm but not hard tannic spine supporting the equally serious, lengthy and impeccably well-balanced finish. Like the Chaffots, this always ages well and in 2020, it will need it.

Score: 92-94 Allen Meadow (AM), Bourghound (BH), January 2022

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos Baulet comes from a purchase of wine and comes from a tiny parcel of 0.084ha located jus below the Lambrays winery. It has a very perfumed floral bouquet although it lacks a little amplitude compared to Lignier’s other cuvées. The palate is much better with fine grip, sappy red fruit, quite saline in the mouth with a citrus finish. I will give the aromatics the benefit of the doubt.

Score: 90-92 Neal Martin (NM), Vinous Media (VM), November 2021

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes is deep and concentrated, unwinding in the glass with aromas of cassis and wild berries mingled with warm spices, orange rind, burning embers and forest floor. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it´s rich and concentrated, with lively acids and powdery tannins. Built to age, it will reward patience.

Laurent Lignier began his harvest on August 27, reporting below-average yields and finished alcohols between 13% and 14%. Once again, the result is a fine vintage for both his domaine holdings and négociant sources—the latter, amounting to some 3.5 hectares of vines, now clearly distinguished in our reviews. As readers will know, winemaking is pretty classical at this address, with a short cold maceration, two to three weeks´ maceration with one pigéage and one rémontage per day and maturation in barrels, some one-third of which are new—if possible, without racking—for fully 22 months in the domaine´s cold cellars. The 2020s are more primary and tightly wound than Lignier´s 2019s, but they´re similar in terms of ultimate quality and are well worth seeking out.

Score: 93-95 William Kelley (WK), The Wine Advocate (WA), January 2022