Once again the nose is wonderfully fresh and even spicier with its aromas of poached plum and liqueur-like dark pinot fruit that is also tinged with exotic tea wisps. There is noticeably better density to the caressing and seductively textured yet decided powerful flavors that brim with dry extract before concluding in a moderately austere and hugely long finale. This too is quite compact and very much built to repay extended keeping.

Score: 92-94 Allen Meadow (AM), Bourghound (BH), January 2024

The 2022 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cruhas an overtly floral bouquet with rose petalsand violets complementing the red fruit. It´svivacious as it was in barrel. The palate ismedium-bodied with edgy, succulent tannins andiodine touches. The finish needs a little morecomplexity and nerve. Tasted at the StannaryWines dinner in London with Charles vanCanneyt.

Charles van Canneyt guided me through the Domaine’s wines in the cellar, which always feels a degree or two colder than others. “We picked between September 3 and 7,” he tells me. “It’s quite quick because we hire a lot of pickers. Everything is de-stemmed.” I asked his view about the duration of maturation; Hudelot-Noëllat was advantaged by the amount of space. “I think the vintage needs time. I will rack them and put them back in barrel for bottling next spring. Yes, space is important. We had 90 barrels in 2021 and 213 barrels in 2022.” There’s one absolute cracker amongst their 2022, and it’s neither their Richebourg nor Romanée-Saint-Vivant, as good as they are. No. It’s a heavenly Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts that elicited an audible “wow” from my lips. This was a fine set of wines generally, each articulating their respective terroirs, with just a couple of wines requiring a little more grip and substance on the finish.

Score: 92 Neal Martin (NM), Vinous Media (VM), March 2024

The 2022 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots is one of the highlights of the range this year. Wafting from the glass with aromas of plums, cassis, orange zest and exotic spices and framed by a deft application of new oak, it´s medium to full-bodied, concentrated and multidimensional, with terrific depth, velvety tannins and a long, broad finish.

Charles Van Canneyt has produced a beautiful range of 2022s—but that won´t surprise readers familiar with this estate´s consistent excellence. Van Canneyt has had the reins here for over a decade now, and his approach has crystalized: the predominantly destemmed fruit, retained intact, is fermented in cement tanks for a classical maceration of two to three weeks. Élevage is in barrels now predominantly sourced from Cavin, with Cadus in a supporting role, and lasts fully 18 months, with the exception of the Bourgogne Rouge, which is bottled before harvest. These uncomplicated methods, combined with an enviable palette of appellations planted with notably old vines, produce elegant, charming wines with impressive substance and aging potential. I´ve been buying them for my own cellar since my student days, so this is an address I warmly recommend.

Score: 93-95 William Kelley (WK), The Wine Advocate (WA), January 2024